Rummy's Savage E-5SC

[Semi Pro]

very cool project

[JasonB]

Originally Posted by lincpimp

You have no idea what you are talking about.

A 1717 would be the logical choice as it produces more torque. It has a larger diameter stator so it will be able to procue the needed torque.

I have run both the 1520 and the 1717 and the 1717 is the clear choice winner for a heavier vehicle, and a longer wheelbase vehicle.

I ran both with a MMM and a zippy 5kmah 40c lipo. No heat issues on the esc or lipo with either but you could feel the torque difference with the 1717 and it ran cooler...

Nothing against the 1520 but it is a good 1/8 mt motor. Get much bigger and you need a larger motor. I would like to see a 1725 motor, around 1400kv for 8s use with the MMmxl.

But this is just my opinion too, sure I may have days of runtime with hundreds of brushless setups but what do I know...

Interesting. Well, I have never run a 1717, so as linc suggested, I can't speak from experience on that motor, only based on everything I've read on other related forum posts, which is as I stated earlier, it is an amp hog. I do run a 1520, and can confirm that it is a torque monster, quite efficient, And total overkill for my standard length Savage - wouldn't have it any other way. Best of luck on your project, hope it goes well . . . Looking great so far!

[NickRummy]

It's nice to see some good progress FINALLY. Finished the plastic mock up channel and mounted up the side rail assembly with the stone guards too. Actually worked out really really well. Putting the flux battery boxes back on is going to take some serious thinking though.





I'm going to make a center skid. The stone guards cover up the sides nicely but the open bottom of the TCS conversion bugs me.



Some body on shots. Springs are really soft and the plastic channel for the body mounts is sagging but it's pretty close to the ride height I'm going for. Can't wait to get in the XL axles to widen out the track width.









Time to make the aluminum rails since the plastic ones worked out well then start assembling the front and rear bumper assemblies so I can get started on those.

[thzero]

You could also just put the batteries inside the TVPs. Granted it does raise the CoG a bit as they have to sit over the driveshaft; see my thread for what I did.

Seems that it needs to have a slightly wider track.

[NickRummy]

I've debated about the battery going in the middle. I don't think it's a bad option. The battery boxes will have to be raised slightly to clear the new side mounts anyway.

I posted in the pics that I have XL axles on the way. That'll give me 1/2" more width per side.

[thzero]

Yeah that will help then. Think you will still want to do something akin to my axle mod especially if using the XL axles.

Originally Posted by NickRummy

I've debated about the battery going in the middle. I don't think it's a bad option. The battery boxes will have to be raised slightly to clear the new side mounts anyway.

I posted in the pics that I have XL axles on the way. That'll give me 1/2" more width per side.

[NickRummy]

I have a sleeve I'm going to try first. You know how on the adapters I made for you there is a shoulder in between the 24mm hex and the bearing in the knuckle? I think that's why the XL axles have a problem. They have nothing to support them when they flex and the weakest point is at the thread where they are tightened down. I'm going to make some of these beefy sleeves and try them out and see how it holds up.

[_paralyzed_]

I don't know what the side pieces from the 5sc kit are called, but I'd just throw the batteries there, one on each side. Mount some straps and call her a day.

[NickRummy]

Originally Posted by _paralyzed_

I don't know what the side pieces from the 5sc kit are called, but I'd just throw the batteries there, one on each side. Mount some straps and call her a day.

I'm not sure I'll want to rely on them holding the weight of the batteries when it's being bashed hard. It's just two plastic support arms that hang off the chassis. The stone guards that go under the side body mounts are just a thin flexible plastic that wouldn't support anything. I might split the side body mounts up into two pieces instead of the one long channel. That might give me some more room on the sides.

[thzero]

Yes, I'm pretty sure you hit on the head. Be interesting to see if beefy sleeves solves the problem; if it does, certainly a less of a hassle solution.

Originally Posted by NickRummy

I have a sleeve I'm going to try first. You know how on the adapters I made for you there is a shoulder in between the 24mm hex and the bearing in the knuckle? I think that's why the XL axles have a problem. They have nothing to support them when they flex and the weakest point is at the thread where they are tightened down. I'm going to make some of these beefy sleeves and try them out and see how it holds up.

[viction]

Some FLM extended arms would fill in that body perfectly.

[NickRummy]

It was sloooooooow weekend in the RC shop. Way too much to do around the house and for the holiday. I got nothing done. Almost!

I did get one of the spacers done for the 24mm hexes. I'm hoping these will help beef up the axle flex.

XL stub with stock purple spacer and new larger spacer





Here it is in place. My thought is that since it's sandwiched in between the hex hub and the steering knuckle this will help cut down on the amount the axle can flex on hard landings, hopefully keeping the threads from snapping off like they're known for?

[Overdriven]

What you've created looks alot like an extended hex, except that it is in 2 pieces. What about taking an extended hex with an 8mm bore, and drill a hole for the drive pin in the correct location. It'll be all one piece, and might support the axle better. Only issue then is you might want to use a sleeve or something on the threaded portion of the axle. Just an observation, and throwing out an idea. Cool truck man, I love those bodies.

[NickRummy]

Originally Posted by Overdriven

What you've created looks alot like an extended hex, except that it is in 2 pieces. What about taking an extended hex with an 8mm bore, and drill a hole for the drive pin in the correct location. It'll be all one piece, and might support the axle better. Only issue then is you might want to use a sleeve or something on the threaded portion of the axle. Just an observation, and throwing out an idea. Cool truck man, I love those bodies.

Exactly what I would want to do, build a one piece extended hex but there's a lot of machining time tied up in that 24mm hex with the threaded end. I'm hoping this will work well and it's way easier than machining a one piece part. Time will tell.

Alza motor mounts came in for the 1717.



Some clearance issues



"Trimmed" the TCS plates

[Overdriven]

I forgot about the 24mm hex size of the wheels and the savage 5t hexes you already bought. Yea I'd try my best to make them work instead of modifying something else and then wrapping them with aluminum tape for the wheels. Like I said, just an idea I was throwing out there. Back to the regularly scheduled build. Looking good btw!