Anyone notice the new clutch adaptors from Tekno!

[George16]

Originally Posted by teknorc

Correct. The new 2-shoe does away with the flywheel, collet, and clutch nut. So it's lighter, stronger, spins truer and is less expensive to setup.

The 3-shoe is also a 1-piece design and provides the most tuning and clutch shoe options along with the best performance. The new 3-shoe with the .7mm springs is one of the best setups we've tried.

As for the Elektri-Crap, I thought we emailed back and forth until your problem was solved. If not, give us some more details on your setup so we can try to help rather than calling our product a piece of crap. There are many reasons it can get hot, and the fact that we've run them competitively in truggies for over a year without issues leads me to believe there might be something in your setup that may be causing the problems (locked in 2nd gear by chance?). Or try the new 3-shoe...

We are exchanging all of the old adapters for the new 2-shoe adapter free of charge (just pay $2 for shipping). Send us your old Elektri-Clutch to our address with a return address and return postage and we'll take care of the rest.

Or, send us your old adapter and $10 and we'll upgrade you to our new 3-shoe adapter (clutch springs and shoes not included, but you may have some that work already off of your nitro).

The new 3-shoe adapter (no shoes) will now be included in all of our conversion kits except the Losi's, which will include a full 2 shoe clutch. The reason for just including the adapter is that most people converting should have springs and shoes that will fit right on whereas the Losi 4-shoe clutch and clutch bells are not compatible with our new adapter.

TeknoRC, thanks for your support. I still didn't get the temps to go down even after putting the new clutch you sent to me. Like I stated in my build, my conversion's tranny is locked in 2nd gear. I'll probably try it again in the future but for now, I'll just enjoy running the truck using the long-shanked pinions I bought from your store.

[lincpimp]

Originally Posted by George16

TeknoRC, thanks for your support. I still didn't get the temps to go down even after putting the new clutch you sent to me. Like I stated in my build, my conversion's tranny is locked in 2nd gear. I'll probably try it again in the future but for now, I'll just enjoy running the truck using the long-shanked pinions I bought from your store.

If you have enough motor to not have startup issues, the clutch is not really needed. It is just another option, some will like the feel, others will prefer a direct drive with a pinion. I generally prefer the latter, but I did find a great use for the clutch adapter with a nitro 4tec bell and ran an 1/8 scale on raod car with a 2 speed. Worked like a champ. I did use al clutch shoes from integy, the 3 shoe type that came with a different flywheel. No slip and not bad temps either.

[teknorc]

Yeah, 'the locked in 2nd' is probably the cause of the excessive heat. Clutches need a certain RPM/gearing combo range to work properly and locking in 2nd takes the clutch out of that range. So if you want to keep the single speed, direct drive is probably the way to go.

We realize the clutch is not a perfect system, like lincpimp said, it's another option. Our new 3-shoe is pretty cool though and allows a greater range of the above mentioned RPM/gearing combos. With the thinner .7mm springs, it would probably work good on a single speed Revo.

[js058515]

Originally Posted by teknorc

Yeah, 'the locked in 2nd' is probably the cause of the excessive heat. Clutches need a certain RPM/gearing combo range to work properly and locking in 2nd takes the clutch out of that range. So if you want to keep the single speed, direct drive is probably the way to go.

We realize the clutch is not a perfect system, like lincpimp said, it's another option. Our new 3-shoe is pretty cool though and allows a greater range of the above mentioned RPM/gearing combos. With the thinner .7mm springs, it would probably work good on a single speed Revo.

A question on the new 3 shoe clutch system that I have is about clearance between the clutch bell and the center diff mount? On my 8T when using the Tekno RC clutch bell I have to dremel a little (not an issue at all) to ensure that there is clearance for it to spin. I noticed that a standard nitro clutch bell's diameter is larger, which causes me to think that I have to dremel a little more for. Does that sound right?

[teknorc]

Originally Posted by js058515

A question on the new 3 shoe clutch system that I have is about clearance between the clutch bell and the center diff mount? On my 8T when using the Tekno RC clutch bell I have to dremel a little (not an issue at all) to ensure that there is clearance for it to spin. I noticed that a standard nitro clutch bell's diameter is larger, which causes me to think that I have to dremel a little more for. Does that sound right?

That's exactly right. That's also the reason we went with the smaller clutch system in the beginning, because it fit in more places. Using the 44mm mount and a 13t clutch bell requires the most grinding while the 36mm mount or our new (yet to be released :) square can motors will provide more clearance. We've found that the Mugen and Losi required the slight mod, while RC8, Jammin and Hot Bodies more clearance.

[js058515]

Originally Posted by teknorc

That's exactly right. That's also the reason we went with the smaller clutch system in the beginning, because it fit in more places. Using the 44mm mount and a 13t clutch bell requires the most grinding while the 36mm mount or our new (yet to be released :) square can motors will provide more clearance. We've found that the Mugen and Losi required the slight mod, while RC8, Jammin and Hot Bodies more clearance.

I figured you had that base covered......and I have been holding off on more motor purchases because I was hoping for square can versions of the 1512 and 1509. Which and when are they going to be available? The square 1515 in my 8t has been awesome. It's been worth the price.