Direct to diff outrunner conversion*update*

[lincpimp]

Not sure if the quark has that kind of adjustability, I will check.

Probably need to do the heatsink mod the the 65 as it appears to be comming of the thermal tape. Any reason why I can't delete the case entirely and just epaoxy a heatsink to the fets and maybe put it in a little box like the MM? Or maybe shrink it like a bk esc?

[zeropointbug]

Originally Posted by pcnutz

if that is a 4 pole out runner, see if your esc has 30 degree timming, that should fix your cogging issue

Outrunners are usually 12 pole designs, otherwise, there would be no point to using them in place of inrunner (low pole motors).

[zeropointbug]

Okay, a Power 60 motor (400kv) on 5s2p A123, or better yet 4s lipo (lower top speed) should be just about right for a maxx or Revo truck.

Top speed would be around 48mph with 5s2p A123, or 45mph on 4s lipo.

OR, on the extreme torque end... the Power 110 (295kv) on 5s lipo or 6s2p A123 for a little over 45mph, and crazy, crazy torque... that would be a silent, deadly machine.

[lincpimp]

Yeah, my setup with the 46 on 4s lipo would be around 40mph. My only issue would be lack of a slipper for an off road vehicle, and you would need a good slolid motor mount, like 1/4" 7075 al. I was also thinking that i could incorporate two revo slippers, one on each end of the motor. a custom shaft and adapters to replace the spurs with drive cups would be required. Might add too much length though. If you really want one, I may be able to get a discount, not sure how much but give me the #s you want and I can ask my buddy. Looks like the 46 would be about 80-85 bucks from him.

[sikeston34m]

Hey Lincpimp,

How do you plan on going shaft to shaft with a slipper? If you get that figured out, would you post some pictures please? I've been tossing that around in my head for awhile now, and so far I've come up with nothing.

Before you go paying a wad of money for something that IMO is overpriced. Check out what Lucien has to offer over at http://www.innov8tivedesigns.com/ind...cPath=21_25_38

I'm not sure what length you're looking for, but he has some things that you might be interested in.

I have a 3032-12 that should be here by Thursday. I'm going to test it in my E maxx Direct Drive setup. But soon, I will be doing an E Revo Direct Drive to Diff with a motor similiar to this. The E Revo will probably have to wait on his 40mm motors, which are supposed to be out next month.

[pcnutz]

I would ask a airplane guy, but I think you still use 30 degree timming for 12 pole too

[Serum]

test it; heatgun within reach..

[MTBikerTim]

the out runners tend to have more poles (mentioned earlier) for more torque.

[Hickoryhead]

I am not trying to change the way this thread is going but could you not go with a little bigger kv say 1000ish and still have plenty of torque? This would be more efficient and have a sealed can. No dust problem in the motor. I don’t have the experience you all do. I just see in-runners utilizing the direct drive setup would be almost unstoppable IMO. I have no desire to try an out runner direct drive here in southern utah. The dust is harsh enough on my in runners. I am following all this hopping that some tries an in runner.

[zeropointbug]

No... you simply can't take a low kv. inrunner (low pole) and run it at the voltages we use, and expect to get decent power from it.

You 'could' get a quite large inrunner, something at the very least a 1527 motor and run it way under powered (for it's size) to get the right rpm out of it to be used on the tranny. I can't really tell you how efficient this would be though.

IMO, the way to do this, is to use higher pole motors (which has higher torque lower rpm, but same power output as similarly sized inrunner) and go directly onto the diffs.

Or, if what you are talking about Hickoryhead, try and find an appropriately sized outrunner and go direct drive to transmission, but I see little gain doing this, IMO.

This is a territory no one has really been yet... it makes things interesting.

[zeropointbug]

I like what you are saying though Hickoryhead, about using an inrunner so everything is nice and sealed from dust.

I wonder about the 19xx Neu motors? I will check this out.

[lincpimp]

Good to see that you are interested in this, Buggie

I will try a larger out runner, maybe with my slipper mod if I have the time to get parts made. Thinking a 46 or 60 in a very light 1/8 buggy. Would like to do 6s or more, what esc choices do i have for running an outrunner? The quark works well but it is 5s max.

[zeropointbug]

I don't know about this dual slipper setup you want to do, it sounds good, but I think the torque will be far to high to be able to use them, they don't have enough holding force, IMO.

If you mod your Quark with some exra caps, like 4 extra to the power lead, you should be able to do 6s lipo. Have you seen my Quark? I am running 7s2p A123, that is higher on state voltage than 6s lipo, and it runs like a dream.

I just checkd out the 19xx Neu motors, but they don't have anything that would work...

[MetalMan]

I think the acceleration will be dependent on how the ESC is programmed. If it's not fast enough, you could always decrease punch control on the MM, or do the equivalent on the Quark. If that's not enough, then a little adjustment to the exponential on your radio or to the throttle curve on the MM should fix any slow spool-up issues. I can tell you that the outrunner in my 2.2 rock crawler (the size of a 540 brushed motor) gets up to speed VERY fast, even when geared for 12mph and running a Mamba 25 on 3s Lipo.

This whole idea of outrunner-in-the-middle has intrigued me to try the same sort of setup in my MT2. The dual slipper clutch (torque control) idea is excellent, if it could be pulled off efficiently (not too heavy or takes up too much space). Thankfully outrunners are built such that custom shafts could be made, more specificially to fit into a custom slipper clutch setup.

Speaking of slipper clutch setup, we gotta get some sort of 3D model of one made using Revo components. The slipper clutch items would most likely need their own chassis-mounting hardware, so as not to put too much strain on the motor's bearings. I'll be thinking about it and maybe drawing one up.

[lincpimp]

From experience with my setup, the more aggressive starting power settings work much better. Using small throttle input cuased my setup to cog. If more throttle(around 1/10-1/8 total throttle) was given the motor started up with no problem and would easily spin the tires from a standstill. I am thinking a isolated mount for the motor may be a simpler choice than the slipper.