How much weighs your truggy brushless ?

[Sower]

What kind of run time were you getting Mike? Was that 5000 able to handle a 30 minute race? I know you said you didn't finish the main due to a pinion screw, but have you tested the run time before that?

[jollyjumper]

he told me his mm was cool after 8+ minutes.
nothing about runtime tough.
i personally think you wont make 30 minutes on a 5000mah batt. :002:
any input from the real experts?:032:

byby.

[MetalMan]

My guess would be 15-20mins. for 5000mah.

[RC-Monster Mike]

I finished the race - I just missed a minute or so in the middle. :) In race conditions on an average track, I would guess around 12-15 minutes runtime. A long track would likely get closer to 12 minutes and a shorter track may see 15-17minutes. Bashing would be more like 20-25 minutes for most people(racing is a pretty constant draw). I couldn't get 30 minutes with 8000 mah packs in my emaxx, so no chance with 5000mah in a similar vehicle and set up. For a 30 minute main, I would gear down to maximize runtime and do a battery swap. No way around it(not likely the Wanderer could hold up for this long anyways, but a Lehner or Neu will get into this beast soon enough). I was shocked to see that after around 9 minutes, the motor was still alive(probably 160-180 degrees - no temp gun, but it was too hot to hold for more than 1-2 seconds) - I figured it would be 200 or so after that run, but it handled it quite well(of course I used my heatsink, which helped a little). It was a pretty cool day as well. The mamba Maxx didn't even work up a sweat(Novak fan installed for insurance), which was equally impressive. The mamba Maxx with a Lehner 1940 or 1950 could likely take a 30 minute main with a battery swap without overheating. I am not particularly hard on stuff when I race - rather smooth on the throttle and brakes. In the hands of HotnCold, the system may have been reduced to smoke. :)

[BrianG]

I am having similar good luck with the 16T hardened pinion on my Hyper 8 ( as you know Mike), even after 6 or 7 packs' worth of running. And some of my landings are... well, let's just say "less than pretty" (don't laugh glassdoctor!) so if there was going to be a mesh problem, it would've shown up. You DO NEED lock-tite on the grub screw when running steel on steel!

Mike: I'm sure an LMT 1940/1950 would work great on the MM - too bad you don't have any in stock. ;)

[Serum]

'hee hee'

[jollyjumper]

Originally Posted by RC-Monster Mike

By the way -
The chassis does have quite a bit of flex, too. I will probably make a custom rear brace to minimize this, though it didn't have any detrimental effects on handling, I would like to lessen it a bit(the nitro motor mount braces the chassis a bit, but this is obviously removed for the conversion). :)

would this help out some?

[Pierre]

do you have this kind of motor Clamp mounts ?
http://www.finedesignrc.com/cars/truggy2.jpg
http://www.finedesignrc.com/cars/losi4.jpg

[Serum]

No, they are from Lehner/BK.. they are not the way to mount a motor. Easy and cheap, but they are meant for boats.

Mike,

For it's worth, I was having a chassis flex problem with my truck too. The nitro motor mount was designed to help minimize chassis flex, and since that is now gone, my battery tray does double duty now. I have my battery tray mounted on 4 short, 1" diameter, aluminum standoffs and I ran these down the length of the chassis for mounting. They have now taken the place of the nitro mount and effectively minimize the flex. My battery tray is carbon fiber with a 1/8" think aluminum bottom and is very rigid.

As for the finedesign mounts, you really have to see them. When we first pulled them out of the box, my first comment was that they looked like ear rings. They were not very substantial at all and made mounting the battery awkward. I'd stay away from finedesign. Support after the sale is non existent. When trying to figure out the battery mounting hardware, we called Chris Fine and his response to us was, "you're hobby guys, figure it out."

[Sower]

Yeah, I didn't think it would make it that long. I just got my hopes up after hearing the words "finished the race" :027:

I will say that my setup would definitely handle it if I had the right battery. I am running a Lehner 1940/10 hi-amp with a MM ESC and a Hyperion 4s 4350. I ran the thing at our track for just under 20 minutes before the battery died on me. Motor temp was 120 and the ESC was about 130. I'm running the Kyosho 44t spur and the 13t pinion. Accelleration is awesome, and I hear comments like "holy $#@!, what is that?", or "that thing's crazy" from the other 1/8 truggy racers. Just thought I would share that with you guys. :005: