HOW TO: Quark Mod / LSP Conversion *PIC OVERLOAD WARNING*

[Patrick]

In a 5s1p pack by it's self none will balance each other, because they're in series. But when you connect the two 5s1p packs together to make 5s2p then cell number 1 from pack 1 should balance with cell 1 from pack 2 and cell 2 from pack 1 with cell 2 from pack 2 and so on. So balancing a 5s2p pack should be like balancing a 5s1p pack, because the parallel cells will take care of themselves.
That's why you'd also want to have the 2 packs as close in charge level as possible before you connect them, otherwise they will balance each other very quickly.

i just drove the truck for ~65 minutes straight.. not race pace.. it was night driving.. mostly, high speed passes, and wheelie stands.. i'm balancing the packs now, and will post the charge info in a bit.. along w/ w/e video was picked up w/ the night vision... i was driving w/ the light of surrounding houses (not recomended)..

[jnev]

Thats it. I'm getting a 10,000 packs for my next conversion. 65 minutes.... thats incredible!! How were temps at the end of the run?

[Patrick]

Originally Posted by A4DTM

i was driving w/ the light of surrounding houses (not recomended)..

Why, it's not like the 2.5d has that much power on 5s
Did anything get hot running it for that long. I've noticed that with my 2.5 on 5s it only gets warm and the temp doesn't really change after about 10 minutes.

[zeropointbug]

Originally Posted by jnev

Thats it. I'm getting a 10,000 packs for my next conversion. 65 minutes.... thats incredible!! How were temps at the end of the run?

Keep in mind this time is HIGHLY dependent on how you drive, I can tell you that the way I drive, I would get roughly 40 mins out of a 10,000 pack.

[zeropointbug]

Originally Posted by Patrick

Why, it's not like the 2.5d has that much power on 5s
Did anything get hot running it for that long. I've noticed that with my 2.5 on 5s it only gets warm and the temp doesn't really change after about 10 minutes.

Word, they get to their max temp after about 10 mins for me too, until they reach thermal equilibrium with the ambient air... they are just efficient motors, plain and simple!

I have a 1512/3D (1700kv) running 23 volts, thats 38,000rpm loaded, and it only gets up to 110F now that it's cooler outside here. I am hard running as well, not bad for a smaller motor.

Originally Posted by zeropointbug

Keep in mind this time is HIGHLY dependent on how you drive, I can tell you that the way I drive, I would get roughly 40 mins out of a 10,000 pack.

agreed, that's my estimate at race pace, as well. the packs were barely warm, controller was barely warm, and motor was barely more than slightly warm.. honestly, every time I nailed the throttle, it was on it's lid.. soo much power.. and it's geared for 50mph right now.. I'll update again after I race tommorow.

update. here's an new pic of my truck / rc station:


here's all the parts i've broken so far, well except for spur gears.. maybe a dozen of those lol


i knew i heard something clicking under acceleration.. rear diff:


i'm going to change the layout of the truck, and hopefully get the weight distributed a little more to the front.. i'm not sure if i should do that first, or get a InfernoGT, and rallify it.. suggestions?

[lutach]

Same thing with the diff happened to me today.

[jnev]

I'd say get the LSP running again, and then move on to the Inferno GT.

Originally Posted by lutach

Same thing with the diff happened to me today.

what exactly is wrong?

i tore it apart, and i'm not sure what isn't right..


the part on the bottom right, above the grub and the pin is the part that lets that output move the way it is.. but it seems to just sit in the diff case? first time i've torn apart one of the front/rear diffs.. i'm not sure i'm seeing how it's actually broken..

[mmdooley]

The plastic case broke. See the peace on the right above the set screw? That should not come out of the plastic gear case. That's what happened to mine. The misalignment causes the gears to eat each other up. You can get a new one on e-bay at "nitrorchobbies" at a good price.

hmm. how's it normally stay in place? glue? lol. just placed an order..

2 x HBSC8100 Hot Bodies 6.8mm Ball End (4), (Lightning Series) $3.38

1 x HBSC8097 Hot Bodies 6.8mm Ball (4), (Lightning Series) $2.19

1 x HBSC8011 Hot Bodies 17 Degree Front Hub Carriers (Lightning Series) $4.09

1 x HBSC8008 Hot Bodies Rear Wheel Hubs (Lightning Series) $3.69

1 x KHZ-KP-820-56 King Headz Hot Bodies Lightning Toe-In Plate Set 56mm - Black $22.99

2 x HBSC8217 Hot Bodies Diff Case Screw Sets (Lightning Series) $9.38

1 x MUGB0322 Mugen Silicone Diff Oil 5,000wt $5.99

2 x HBSC8009-2 Hot Bodies Heavy Duty Front/Rear Differential Bulkhead (Lightning Series) $11.98

1 x MUGB0323 Mugen Silicone Diff Oil 7,000wt $5.99

1 x LOSA3505 Team Losi Differential Seal Set: 8B/8T $2.99

1 x SWK9011 Sportwerks CVD Rubber Boots, Black: Turmoil (6) $5.25

1 x HBSC8178 Hot Bodies Front/Rear Hardened Differential (Lightning Stadium) $40.99

Total: $118.91


new balance: <$10 :(

ok, so my lsp's on hold for a short period, while I try out my mt2 w/ the same setup, but 1p.

here's my new goodies for the lsp:


and in two days, i had my mt2 built and in this stage:




yeah, over powered, and w/ hyper7 shocks on it, it should be a good jumper :)

[BrianG]

lol, but not very good at steering.