Quote:
Originally Posted by Chapito
My issues were mostly front a-arm and Diff stripping. If I ran plastic a-arms, they broke; If I ran aluminum a-arms, the pins and retainers bent or broke. I couldn't tell you how many diff. gears and pinions I went through, but It was a lot. The only drive train issue I've had on my mostly stock 8ight-T after almost a year of racing was the front cvd pins sliding out but a little lock-tite and heat shrink solved that problem. It has the original a-arms on it and I haven't even ever shimmed the diffs. Just change the fluids and drive. I'm not saying the LSP is a bad truck, especially considering the price. But if you spend the money on the modifications needed to make it a little more durable, you've spent what you would have(or close anyway) on an 8T. Of coarse, it's only my opinion.........
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Yea, I understand what your saying. The diffs and arms are easy fixes. The ST-R conversion fixes the arm problem. The aluminum LSP arms are nice, but they will cause other things to break if your hard on it. Kingheadz holders would have probably solved your problem since there WAY stronger than the stock ones, even the stock CNC ones on the Pro-R. The plastic arms are just plain horrible. They flex WAY to much. The ST-R conversion solves both problems. As far as diffs, it really depends on the gears you buy. The original hardened gears (before HPI bought HB) almost never give out unless there not shimmed. The Kyosho gears are easier to get since the original HB gears are almost impossible to find. The Kyosho gears would have solved the problems you had.
Like I said, its a great truck after a few modifications. Granted you will probably spend just as much on the LSP-R and the parts to do the mods as a nice new 8T cost, but from what I've been told, it will out perform it.
11.23.2007, 02:41 PM
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