The OFFICAL RC-MONSTER extended crt.5 thread.

the kit uses a standard rear driveshaft for the front driveshaft, and mike can always make you one as well,iirk

[FullMetalGrave]

Originally Posted by entjoles

the kit uses a standard rear driveshaft for the front driveshaft, and mike can always make you one as well,iirk

Oh Ok. So on the stock car out of the factory, the rear shaft is longer than the front? I figured the front was a little shorter, I'm still such a noob

[rchippie]

What weight shock oil is everyone using with the extended .5 ?. How does 45 FR & 40 RR sound ?.

[GO-RIDE.com]

Originally Posted by rchippie

What weight shock oil is everyone using with the extended .5 ?. How does 45 FR & 40 RR sound ?.

Which pistons & springs?

I've found the stock crt.5 shocks to be a bit small in diameter and the fronts just don't have enough stroke for the extra weight of a brushless conversion. Unfortunately, I don't know the weight of a stock crt.5 with fuel, but my brushless is 4.5 lbs with stock sized tires a 4.75 with truck tires.

The reason I say the shocks are a bit small is that even overdamped (single hole pistons & heavy oil) I still blow through the shocks too easily on big jumps. If the shocks were larger diameter or the fronts had more stroke (less leverage) then they could resist big hits better without being so overdamped on the small stuff.

I've seen a few nitro racers that are using larger bore (diameter) shocks from other vehicles. I'll probably at least do this to the front of my crt.5.

[GO-RIDE.com]

Originally Posted by rchippie

What weight shock oil is everyone using with the extended .5 ?. How does 45 FR & 40 RR sound ?.

Did you ever get an answer to this? If you plan on using the smaller 2 hole pistons I'd go with 60 F & 40 R. And, I'd at least run Blue springs on the front.

[rchippie]

Originally Posted by GO-RIDE.com

Did you ever get an answer to this? If you plan on using the smaller 2 hole pistons I'd go with 60 F & 40 R. And, I'd at least run Blue springs on the front.

Yes i did. Mike said he uses the white springs with the oil that the manual says to use for the build with the single hole piston. I have the two hole pistons all ready installed . so i bumped up the weights a little. I put 60 in the FR & 35 in the RR. I dont have the white springs so i installed the blue springs.


James the motor runs cold with the kit tires & a 12/46 gear . So im going to try the same gear first. If the motor gets hot then i'll gear down, to a 11 or 10 tooth.

[GO-RIDE.com]

Originally Posted by rchippie

Yes i did. Mike said he uses the white springs with the oil that the manual says to use for the build with the single hole piston. I have the two hole pistons all ready installed . so i bumped up the weights a little. I put 60 in the FR & 35 in the RR. I dont have the white springs so i installed the blue springs.


James the motor runs cold with the kit tires & a 12/46 gear . So im going to try the same gear first. If the motor gets hot then i'll gear down, to a 11 or 10 tooth.

I tried the white springs, but at my track the car flipped over too easily. The chassis did not roll properly into the turns and instead would flip over if I caught a bump in a high speed corner. I've since removed the rear sway bar (never ran the front) and the car was even better. Now I might be able to run White F & Blue R and still get good stability in the corners. Without swaybars you can run stiffer springs for jumping and still get the chassis to lean for cornering.

I would think a 5000kv S can on 2S would be fine with truck tires and geared 12/46. I ran my 6400kv Novak on 2S with truck tires and the same gearing with very good results and only warm motor/esc temps. I also ran it with 13/46 gearing, but it did not reach full speed by the end of the straight and developed a bit more heat, so I went back to 12/46.

[rchippie]

Originally Posted by GO-RIDE.com

I tried the white springs, but at my track the car flipped over too easily. The chassis did not roll properly into the turns and instead would flip over if I caught a bump in a high speed corner. I've since removed the rear sway bar (never ran the front) and the car was even better. Now I might be able to run White F & Blue R and still get good stability in the corners. Without swaybars you can run stiffer springs for jumping and still get the chassis to lean for cornering.

I would think a 5000kv S can on 2S would be fine with truck tires and geared 12/46. I ran my 6400kv Novak on 2S with truck tires and the same gearing with very good results and only warm motor/esc temps. I also ran it with 13/46 gearing, but it did not reach full speed by the end of the straight and developed a bit more heat, so I went back to 12/46.

I think the gearing i have on it now is going to be okay. Because im using proline truck size street tires (road rage) & the motor runs cool, & i dont think the truck bowties are that much taller.