The OFFICAL RC-MONSTER extended crt.5 thread.

[rchippie]

Originally Posted by lincpimp

That is light battery, you should have a really good handling .5 when you are done.

What motor are you going to use? Will you step down to the feigao 8s or are you going to try a different mfg motor? Any specific kv, or are you looking for a less powerful motor? Just curious!

James im using the 7s -5070kv on i got from you. Do you think it will be okay with the truck tires ?.

[GO-RIDE.com]

Originally Posted by rchippie

What weight shock oil is everyone using with the extended .5 ?. How does 45 FR & 40 RR sound ?.

Did you ever get an answer to this? If you plan on using the smaller 2 hole pistons I'd go with 60 F & 40 R. And, I'd at least run Blue springs on the front.

[lincpimp]

Originally Posted by rchippie

James im using the 7s -5070kv on i got from you. Do you think it will be okay with the truck tires ?.

I really do not see any reason that the 7s would not work. You will have to lower the gearing due to the taller tires to maintain the same speed. I would say to try it and keep checking your temps. The s can motors are pretty good motors, you could step up to a l can, or go to 3s but both will increase weight.

[rchippie]

Originally Posted by GO-RIDE.com

Did you ever get an answer to this? If you plan on using the smaller 2 hole pistons I'd go with 60 F & 40 R. And, I'd at least run Blue springs on the front.

Yes i did. Mike said he uses the white springs with the oil that the manual says to use for the build with the single hole piston. I have the two hole pistons all ready installed . so i bumped up the weights a little. I put 60 in the FR & 35 in the RR. I dont have the white springs so i installed the blue springs.


James the motor runs cold with the kit tires & a 12/46 gear . So im going to try the same gear first. If the motor gets hot then i'll gear down, to a 11 or 10 tooth.

[GO-RIDE.com]

Originally Posted by rchippie

Yes i did. Mike said he uses the white springs with the oil that the manual says to use for the build with the single hole piston. I have the two hole pistons all ready installed . so i bumped up the weights a little. I put 60 in the FR & 35 in the RR. I dont have the white springs so i installed the blue springs.


James the motor runs cold with the kit tires & a 12/46 gear . So im going to try the same gear first. If the motor gets hot then i'll gear down, to a 11 or 10 tooth.

I tried the white springs, but at my track the car flipped over too easily. The chassis did not roll properly into the turns and instead would flip over if I caught a bump in a high speed corner. I've since removed the rear sway bar (never ran the front) and the car was even better. Now I might be able to run White F & Blue R and still get good stability in the corners. Without swaybars you can run stiffer springs for jumping and still get the chassis to lean for cornering.

I would think a 5000kv S can on 2S would be fine with truck tires and geared 12/46. I ran my 6400kv Novak on 2S with truck tires and the same gearing with very good results and only warm motor/esc temps. I also ran it with 13/46 gearing, but it did not reach full speed by the end of the straight and developed a bit more heat, so I went back to 12/46.

[rchippie]

Originally Posted by GO-RIDE.com

I tried the white springs, but at my track the car flipped over too easily. The chassis did not roll properly into the turns and instead would flip over if I caught a bump in a high speed corner. I've since removed the rear sway bar (never ran the front) and the car was even better. Now I might be able to run White F & Blue R and still get good stability in the corners. Without swaybars you can run stiffer springs for jumping and still get the chassis to lean for cornering.

I would think a 5000kv S can on 2S would be fine with truck tires and geared 12/46. I ran my 6400kv Novak on 2S with truck tires and the same gearing with very good results and only warm motor/esc temps. I also ran it with 13/46 gearing, but it did not reach full speed by the end of the straight and developed a bit more heat, so I went back to 12/46.

I think the gearing i have on it now is going to be okay. Because im using proline truck size street tires (road rage) & the motor runs cool, & i dont think the truck bowties are that much taller.

[skellyo]

rchippie's CRT.5:

[rchippie]

thank you sean

[captain harlock]

Very nice, hippie!

I just got mine out yesterday and the rear left turnbuckle shaft got stripped out of the ball link( at full throttle the car got out of control and flew like fan in the air).

I'm using 1930/5(4180rpm), a Mamba Max, 4s1p 2500mah Evo25, 13/46 gearing and slick panther truck tires with the standard crt.5 rims.

Definitely a crazy ride!

[rchippie]

Originally Posted by captain harlock

Very nice, hippie!

I just got mine out yesterday and the rear left turnbuckle shaft got stripped out of the ball link( at full throttle the car got out of control and flew like fan in the air).

I'm using 1930/5(4180rpm), a Mamba Max, 4s1p 2500mah Evo25, 13/46 gearing and slick panther truck tires with the standard crt.5 rims.

Definitely a crazy ride!

Looks great. That thing must be crazy on 4s . what body is that & how do you like the fit ?.

[captain harlock]

That's the nitro rustler's body. It needs alot of mods( not really) to make it fit.

[Arct1k]

Getting fed up - First run of the weekend and broke the steering servo saver again at the linkage to the steering link...

This is the third time and fed up of having to spend $10 each time on a bunch of parts I don't need. Anyone else having this?

[GO-RIDE.com]

I'm having some issues with differential oil weights. I have two problems.
1. The back end of the car kicks pretty badly in whoops under 3/4 throttle or higher. Not too bad at 1/2 throttle or lower.
2. Exiting turns on power it develops a bad push and gets worse the more power you try to use.

I've tried both the follow oils (F/C/R) 3/3/1 and 2/4/1. The 3/3/1 seemed to be a bit better, but not a big difference. Any recommendations?

[rchippie]

Originally Posted by GO-RIDE.com

I'm having some issues with differential oil weights. I have two problems.
1. The back end of the car kicks pretty badly in whoops under 3/4 throttle or higher. Not too bad at 1/2 throttle or lower.
2. Exiting turns on power it develops a bad push and gets worse the more power you try to use.

I've tried both the follow oils (F/C/R) 3/3/1 and 2/4/1. The 3/3/1 seemed to be a bit better, but not a big difference. Any recommendations?

I run 1/1/500 or 50w shock oil in the rear. This works very well for me.

This is the setup i use


http://www.jamminproducts.com/CRTset...5JHreddeer.pdf

The FR swaybar is not used in that setup.

[GO-RIDE.com]

What kind of track do you drive? Loose, high bite, rutted, smooth, big jumps, tight, open, etc?

I was under the impression that the 1k/1k/500 was good for a lower torque nitro motor with a clutch, but the high torque instant power of electric does better with thicker oil. I never did try the 1/1/500. I just went to the 3/3/1 that other electric conversions were recommending.