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MTBikerTim
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03.11.2008, 07:47 PM

I just found one of these in Australia for $239 + shipping. Why do I never have any money. Since posting this I have had a good look at the nitro version. These things seem to be incredibly well designed. The hubs are huge for a 1/16th.


Savage: FLM Conversion, 6s, MMM, CC 1520.
Mini-T Pro: Micro Pro 6800kv, Lipo, HS-81mg, Dirt Hawgs
M18MT: Quark 33A, Y22S 6000kv, FP 2s Lipo
LRP S8-BX: RC-M Conversion, Tekin RX8 B1600KV, 6S.

Last edited by MTBikerTim; 03.11.2008 at 07:50 PM.
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jhautz
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03.11.2008, 08:01 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by MTBikerTim View Post
I think it is a NiCd standard 1/10th stick pack
yea 1800mah NiCd The thing that really sucks about the electric chassis is a stick pack is the only thing you can fit into it. I can even get any of my old 6cell SxS pack in it. and I'm having a heck of a tme finding a decent capacity lipo that would fit also

Quote:
Originally Posted by MTBikerTim View Post
I just found one of these in Australia for $239 + shipping. Why do I never have any money.
I won one new in the box on ebay for $92 last week, but I got the ME16 RY version. Its a beefy little sucker. And I use the term "little" loosly. It weighs just a shade over 4lbs out of the box (certainly not mini in my eyes), but it looks pretty tough. I am waiting for my motor to come in for it now. I ordered a MM4600kv motor to run with a sidewinder ESC that I already had. Probably just on 2s. Its more something that I can let the nephew drive around so I can shut him up and not let him touch my good stuff.

In stock form its pretty week as far as power and speed go. The other thing that is very weak is the steering. There is hardly any throw at all in the tires from lock to lock and from my estimation its not gonna be a simple job to get it to turn more. Its got the front diff case in between the cam arms of the steering mechanism so there really isnt any way to get them to move farther. Its probably gonna be a funn little driveway toy and if thats all you are expecting from it it will be fine, but for $239 I can tink of a bunch of other trucks that would be better IMO. I see them in onlne stores for $165 here in the US. Look around you should be able to find it for less than what you saw.


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MTBikerTim
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03.11.2008, 09:13 PM

Cars tend to be more expensive here. $239 is cheaper then I can get it from the US when you add postage from any of the stores I can find. Not good to hear about the steering and the battery pack though.

I am definitely going to have to keep a closer eye on ebay though. there are completed listings for a lot cheaper then $239 as you say.


Savage: FLM Conversion, 6s, MMM, CC 1520.
Mini-T Pro: Micro Pro 6800kv, Lipo, HS-81mg, Dirt Hawgs
M18MT: Quark 33A, Y22S 6000kv, FP 2s Lipo
LRP S8-BX: RC-M Conversion, Tekin RX8 B1600KV, 6S.
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lincpimp
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03.12.2008, 12:13 AM

For a 2cell lipo the orion 3200 will fit fine as it is designed to fit the tamiya m series cars, which need a round sided pack. A maxamps 2100 3s pack may fit, Efuel used to sell a 3300 3s lipo that was slightly longer than a stick pack, but would fit in a m series, and a blackfoot too.
   
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MTBikerTim
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03.12.2008, 02:05 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by lincpimp View Post
For a 2cell lipo the orion 3200 will fit fine as it is designed to fit the tamiya m series cars, which need a round sided pack. A maxamps 2100 3s pack may fit, Efuel used to sell a 3300 3s lipo that was slightly longer than a stick pack, but would fit in a m series, and a blackfoot too.
That orion pack looks good. jhuatz has made me think about a crt .5. I can't afford either though, not if I am ever going to finish my savage.


Savage: FLM Conversion, 6s, MMM, CC 1520.
Mini-T Pro: Micro Pro 6800kv, Lipo, HS-81mg, Dirt Hawgs
M18MT: Quark 33A, Y22S 6000kv, FP 2s Lipo
LRP S8-BX: RC-M Conversion, Tekin RX8 B1600KV, 6S.
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VintageMA
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03.12.2008, 10:36 PM

Just saw this and was clicking around CENs site. Found these links for new 1/10 electrics that look much more interesting:

http://www.cenracing.com/censports/me10mt.html
http://www.cenracing.com/censports/me10tr.html

Are you guys convinced enough with the quality of the electric 1/16 that a 1/10 size might be worth looking into versus a 1/10 MT or St conversion? I'm looking to do a 1/10 truck this summer and am just trying to wait a few months to wait and see what the new line-up for the year is as spring arrives.


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BL_RV0
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03.13.2008, 09:17 AM

wow! i like the looks of the TR version. may have to get one- since its four wheel drive. also, look carefully at the small center picture in the TR version's link. do i spy with my little eye some nitro fumes coming out the side? treason!


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VintageMA
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03.13.2008, 11:59 AM

Looking very carefully through the pictures on the ME16 and the ME10 - it looks like most of the close-up pictures are the same as from the ME16 images (ie: for body internals and electrics). Possible there are no real shots yet for th 1/10 and the just used the nitro version with the electric shell.

Either way - something to look out for in the next few months for a new 1/10 MT for me.


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JThiessen
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03.13.2008, 01:21 PM

Can anyone tell what the difference is between the MT and the TR?


Losi 8T 1.0, Savage Flux - XL style, LST XXL, Muggy, 3.3 E-Revo Conversion and sitting outside 425hp, 831 Tq Dodge Ram Turbo Diesel. It SMOKES
   
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jhautz
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03.13.2008, 03:04 PM

Based on what I see in the ME16, I would say get a LS10 or LSGT10 before one of the ME10s. The ME16 and ME10 look to be identical to me with the exception of a longer chassis on the 10 is all. They are for sure "sport" grade rcs. Somewhere in between what we call RC and what Wallmart calls RC. If you can scrtch a good deal on one maybe, but for the $200+ price tag you will be better off with one of the tried and trues IMO. Besides that. The conversions give you alot more battery options than these. They litterally only can fit stick packs. The Orion pack that was pointed out would likely fit.... but the stupid battery will cost more than the whole car cost me . I'll find some sort of low cost lipo alternative for it eventually.


I can't decide if its more fun
to make it...
or break it...


Silent...But Deadly


   
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VintageMA
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03.13.2008, 04:34 PM

IMHO - the composite chassis is really the deal breaker for me. It's probably super flexible to begin with, and any additional customizations would end up making it even worse.


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