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RC-Monster Titanium
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Posts: 1,697
Join Date: Mar 2008
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08.28.2008, 05:02 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianG
Patrick, to be totally clear, the components to remove are the ones in the pic below correct? This will completely disable the built-in BEC? I would;ve thought that just removing the coil would be enough...
I know I'll have to "inject" external 6v power into the MMM throttle power line so the internal circuits can have their power.
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Those are the right parts.
Patrick del Castillo
President, Principle Engineer
Castle Creations
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Guest
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08.28.2008, 05:28 PM
Quote:
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I know I'll have to "inject" external 6v power into the MMM throttle power line so the internal circuits can have their power.
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BrianG, Patrick tell me that the internal BEC of the MMM have a 3.3 volts regulator to power the microprocessor of the MMM, so if you powered it with the 6 volts of your Koolflight UBEC, you risk to destroy your MMM
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RC-Monster Admin
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Posts: 14,609
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Des Moines, IA
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08.28.2008, 05:31 PM
Thanks Patrick!
David: No, I'll be injecting the 6v into the throttle lead back into the MMM, which is normally at ~6v anyway. The additional 3.3v regulator must be further back in the circuit.
Basically, I'll be using an external UBEC without pulling the red wire...
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RC-Monster Admin
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Posts: 14,609
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Des Moines, IA
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08.28.2008, 07:43 PM
Success!
Removed the components Patrick suggested and it works like a champ.
The MMM switch is useless now, switching it off did nothing. So I bridged the contacts at the PCB (did this after the pic above).
And now, I can use the Castle Link without any mods, nor do I need batteries hooked up to the ESC. I don't know if this mod makes anything run longer or better, but I feel better with my V1.
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I don't understand, but I don't think I like it.
Offline
Posts: 215
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Metairie, La.
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08.28.2008, 08:01 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianG
Success!
Removed the components Patrick suggested and it works like a champ.
The MMM switch is useless now, switching it off did nothing. So I bridged the contacts at the PCB (did this after the pic above).
And now, I can use the Castle Link without any mods, nor do I need batteries hooked up to the ESC. I don't know if this mod makes anything run longer or better, but I feel better with my V1. 
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So now basically it's an opto ESC?
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RC-Monster Aluminum
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Posts: 554
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Singapore
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08.28.2008, 08:19 PM
Whoah nice one Brian.....I hope I am good with soldering iron as you are....
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Check out my huge box!
Offline
Posts: 11,935
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Slidell, LA
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08.28.2008, 08:23 PM
I see the fan plug went south too
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RC-Monster Mod
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Posts: 6,597
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: NJ
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08.28.2008, 08:27 PM
Brian just created the first MMM lite...
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Old Skool
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Posts: 7,494
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Devon, England
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08.28.2008, 08:35 PM
$10 says it still conks out...
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RC-Monster Admin
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Posts: 14,609
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Des Moines, IA
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08.28.2008, 08:49 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by JerryF504
So now basically it's an opto ESC?
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Basically yes. Although, in most Opto ESCs, you still need the main battery connection as well.... at least that's how it is in the CC HV ESCs.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TruckBasher
Whoah nice one Brian.....I hope I am good with soldering iron as you are....
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You'd laugh if you saw the iron I worked with. Since I knew those parts were destined for the trash, I heated one side of the IC while gently prying with a tiny screwdriver. The IC basically fell off when I heated the other side. I just cut the inductor out and then removed the leftover connections.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lincpimp
I see the fan plug went south too 
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Of course! I wasn't using it anyway and it was added weight for nothing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arct1k
Brian just created the first MMM lite...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suicideneil
$10 says it still conks out...

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Let's see how long it lasts. I got this ESC really cheap, so if it blows, no biggie. It was more or less my experiment ESC. I've never blown an ESC yet, and I hope not to change that, so hopefully things will be good. The only things that can go wrong now is if the external UBEC fails (sending full B voltage to the internals - ouch!), or if the ESC simply decides to do a Schulze on me.
And neil, I have one thing to say to you:
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RC-Monster Dual Brushless
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Posts: 4,236
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Cape Cod, Mass.
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08.28.2008, 09:47 PM
Impressive work Brian!
1. MBX-6 T8 1900KV, RX8 ON 4S
2. MBX-5T 1520, MMM ON 5S
3. MBX-5 ONROAD CONVERSION 1515, MMM ON 5S
4. MRX-3 ON ROAD CONVERSION 1512, MMM ON 6S
5. TEN T 2650 T8, MMP ON 3S
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RC-Monster Carbon Fiber
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Posts: 463
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Malaysia
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08.29.2008, 11:10 AM
Can I nominate this to be a sticky ? BrianG is a legend. I have just done this mod to my dead V1 & magically, the esc has been resurrected.

Before

After
Regards,
Joe Ling
Hyper 9e Medusa 4S, Savage 5S MMM 8XL, Jammin' 4S Neu MMM, X2 Ninja JX, X2 MMM 5S Neu, E REVO Medusa 6S
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RC-Monster Aluminum
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Posts: 554
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Singapore
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08.29.2008, 11:12 AM
I hope this is applicable to V2......just in case mine dies ( I hope not too soon  )...
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RC-Monster Admin
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Posts: 14,609
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Des Moines, IA
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08.29.2008, 11:38 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by joeling
Can I nominate this to be a sticky ? BrianG is a legend. I have just done this mod to my dead V1 & magically, the esc has been resurrected.
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Don't forget to remove the switch wires and bridge the solder pads where the switch goes. I did a little more testing with the switch in place and found that when it was off and ran it for a couple of minutes, I'd have odd performance. Something like cogging, but not. With the switch closed, everything runs perfectly. So, you might as well remove it and bridge the pads. Cleans up the wiring too.
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RC-Monster Carbon Fiber
Offline
Posts: 463
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Malaysia
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08.29.2008, 11:45 AM
Yep, curious me already tried that. Not good to have the switch opened.
Thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianG
Don't forget to remove the switch wires and bridge the solder pads where the switch goes. I did a little more testing with the switch in place and found that when it was off and ran it for a couple of minutes, I'd have odd performance. Something like cogging, but not. With the switch closed, everything runs perfectly. So, you might as well remove it and bridge the pads. Cleans up the wiring too.
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Regards,
Joe Ling
Hyper 9e Medusa 4S, Savage 5S MMM 8XL, Jammin' 4S Neu MMM, X2 Ninja JX, X2 MMM 5S Neu, E REVO Medusa 6S
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