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Soldermaster Extraordinaire
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Location: Plymouth, MA, USA
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11.11.2008, 12:41 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by rawfuls
Hehe, let's just say, carried away with numbers.
How would 5 in series do?
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Hehe, caps go in parallel.  Unless you're planning a super-HV 120V system... 5 in parallel would be an extra 1650 uF which is fine.
Last edited by What's_nitro?; 11.11.2008 at 12:42 AM.
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roofles.
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Location: Woodland Hills, CA
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11.11.2008, 01:00 AM
See? There's a reason why I'm retarded -.-
brushlessboy16, that he can wire in series? -.^
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Soldermaster Extraordinaire
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Location: Plymouth, MA, USA
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11.11.2008, 01:03 AM
He's making the cap bank for you, right? He will wire them in PARALLEL to give you the extra capacity. Wiring them in SERIES adds the voltage of each cap together. It's just like with batteries.
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RC-Monster Admin
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Location: Des Moines, IA
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11.11.2008, 02:21 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by What's_nitro?
...Wiring them in SERIES adds the voltage of each cap together. It's just like with batteries.
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Yes, and wiring caps in series also reduces the capacitance, just like resistors in parallel. 6 X 1000uF 25v caps in series would make a single 166uF 150v cap...
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Soldermaster Extraordinaire
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11.11.2008, 03:38 AM
I'm starting to think BrianG's sole purpose in life is to fill in my knowledge gaps.  Either way, he is correct. 5 330uF/25V caps in series does not equal 1 330uF 125V cap.
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roofles.
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11.11.2008, 11:14 AM
Jesus, I joined RCMonster just to get these answers, actually, I don't understand a single thing. ;)
Anyways, so 5 parallel in 330uF is perfect for the MM?
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Guest
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11.11.2008, 12:22 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by suicideneil
This is not the Traxxas forum....
Read one of my FAQs, then the tutorials that follow them in the same threads- that will answer all your noob wiring and BEC etc questions in explicit detail 
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ok will somebody ban this sucker please?
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Old Skool
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Devon, England
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11.11.2008, 01:02 PM
Bite my shiny metal ass....
Anyway- Im stumped on the esc and motor issue- it really shouldnt need a shove to get moving, and if the esc is heating up that rapidly, something is very wrong somewhere. I would suggest testing it outside so that you arent crawling around in a small area + goping back and forth (that'll really warm the esc up quickly like with an old mechancial speedo). Beyond that, I'd say kill the esavage with fire and buy a nitro version to convert.....
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roofles.
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11.11.2008, 02:00 PM
lmao. Why would you ban Neil? :p
Lol.... See here, I don't have the 2+ grand to drop on a GMaxx, now, why would I pick up a nitro version to convert!? :D
Anyways, perhaps I should pick up a Medusa? Would one of those run off the MM?
I have a hunch that I need the caps.......
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Old Skool
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Location: Devon, England
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11.11.2008, 02:07 PM
A nice 2000kv 60-70mm medusa would be fine- 60mm = L can, 70mm = XL can.
Depends how much it weighs really, as an L can motor is alot like the hvmaxx motors- use a higher kv and gear it lower to make the power. The XL cans will provide more grunt from the get-go, but they will also draw more current and heat the esc up more- a balancing act. Try upgrading the firmware on the MM to see if that helps- and adjust the start power and timing etc.
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Guest
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11.11.2008, 02:38 PM
the 9l he has is more than enough power to push his savage if he gears it right and uses the propper batts
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roofles.
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11.11.2008, 08:58 PM
Will give it a try neil, and thanks bust....
Neil, I heard that you're quite the Fiegao expert after that spinning toaster of death.
If the motor is cool, and the MM is hot, I'm guessing, go up on the tooth count?
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Old Skool
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Location: Devon, England
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11.11.2008, 09:23 PM
No, gear down. When the motor is hot, its over undergeared, when its cool, its over geared- the hot esc indicates over gearing too (this places more load on the motor so it pulls more amps, heating up the esc).
I stole that hot/cold thing off BrianG though- its on one of the stickies around here...
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roofles.
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11.11.2008, 11:16 PM
Awesome...
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