Losi 2.0 Conversion - Page 2 - RC-Monster Forums

Shark413 · 03.04.2009, 02:33 AM

Well I got the buggy out a few times to the track and I have been very pleased with the quality/durabilty of the Losi conversion. One thing that I am still having trouble with is motor temps, I again tried several pinions with my Eagle Tree hooked up and the lowest temps I got after 10 mins was 150 degrees which seemed on the warm side. So I decided to use a 47T spur which is closer to the stock buggy gearing (48T), instead of the Losi conversions 45T spur. This should give me a few more gearing options. I bascially had to open the hole in the plastic spacer a little bit and grind off a little area under the spacer (there is already a milled out area under the plastic spacer).

Using a Robinson Racing wide gear which is easier on the pinions because they are slighty wider and have more surface area.

Hard to see, but I opened up the hole in the plastic spacer and milled out a small area under the spacer.

RBMike · 01.29.2009, 12:35 PM

Shark, I helped a buddy with this exact conversion a few weeks ago. We did the same thing using the 3mm screws. He has been running it for like 3 practice days and they seem to be holding up fine.

Shark413 · 01.29.2009, 02:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RBMike

Shark, I helped a buddy with this exact conversion a few weeks ago. We did the same thing using the 3mm screws. He has been running it for like 3 practice days and they seem to be holding up fine.

Yeah several people have reported the M3 screws are working ok, but I still would like to try the M4 screws. Tapping is not a problem, and I just opened up the motor and there appears to just be enough room inside for the larger M4 screws. The motor has 2 sets of holes, so I'll tap one set to take M4 and leave the other at M3 size, so I can have both, in case I put the motor in a different mount.

hoovhartid · 01:01 PM

If the noise is getting to you, I got the kyosho plastic spur to fit. Its quiet now.
Its a direct fit, so no need to mod or anything...just take the metal one off and replace it with this.

http://rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=KYOIF147

oh, Its 44t so it will make you a bit faster.

Shark413 · 01.31.2009, 02:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hoovhartid

If the noise is getting to you, I got the kyosho plastic spur to fit. Its quiet now.
Its a direct fit, so no need to mod or anything...just take the metal one off and replace it with this.

http://rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=KYOIF147

oh, Its 44t so it will make you a bit faster.

Thanks for the offer, the guys on this forum are really cool. But I have used plastic before on my first conversions. Plastic is great, quiet, smooth, cheap, and doesn't wear out your pinion like steel does. I used them for several months with no problems, then one day after some heavy track action I knocked a couple of teeth off and had a DNF. So for me I need to be sure I can finish a race, and steel is more reliable than Plastic. May be when Mike releases his Slipperential I can go back to plastic. Also I heard Losi is coming out with there own plastic spurs for the 8ight as well.

himalaya · 02.04.2009, 03:36 AM

Losi's own Xcelorin 1/8 motor has 4mm bolts, that's why the motor mount in Losi conversion kit was designed this way.
Bigger screws will definately be stronger, but some other motor mount(like the Tekno's) uses all four 3mm screws to hold the motor in place, it feels really tough.

Shark413 · 02.04.2009, 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by himalaya

Losi's own Xcelorin 1/8 motor has 4mm bolts, that's why the motor mount in Losi conversion kit was designed this way.
Bigger screws will definately be stronger, but some other motor mount(like the Tekno's) uses all four 3mm screws to hold the motor in place, it feels really tough.

I personally think all motors should use 4mm screws or at least have the option (have both 3 & 4mm holes on the motor). I think 3mm is a carryover from the past and with todays larger more powerful motors 4mm is the new standard. Just like 1/8 motor shafts, we soon found out 5mm was the way to go.

Sower · 02.04.2009, 02:44 PM

Conversion looks great so far - nice work!!

himalaya · 02.05.2009, 04:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shark413

I personally think all motors should use 4mm screws or at least have the option (have both 3 & 4mm holes on the motor). I think 3mm is a carryover from the past and with todays larger more powerful motors 4mm is the new standard. Just like 1/8 motor shafts, we soon found out 5mm was the way to go.

Agreed. Things are never considered "too strong", just the stronger the better. 4X4mm screws will be bullet proof strong, at least it looks that way.

Shark413 · 02.05.2009, 01:58 PM

Well I finally got around to painting a couple of bodies. I am not very good at painting so I stuck to some simple designs. The reason I have two bodies is because I was so excited to see the "E" bodies back in stock I ordered one without remembering I had one on back order as well.

Also, I added some 3M HD dual Loc velcro to the bottom of the tray and added some padding. All of my batteries (except the Losi hardcase) have Dual Loc on them. The the Losi tray is really long, which is good for adjusting weight bias. But, it is bad for short batteries because they tend to slide forward. With the velcro and straps the batteries stay where you put them.

Hard to see but there is dual loc velcro on the bottom of the tray.

Sower · 02.05.2009, 02:03 PM

Dude - that green, white, orange body is awesome!! Nice work! What color is that green?

auto2 · 02.04.2009, 08:14 AM

if i may what is the difference between the 1 and losi 2? the chassis...center drive shaft is longer.... what else? also will a body form the 1 fit a 2?

Shark413 · 02.04.2009, 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by auto2

if i may what is the difference between the 1 and losi 2? the chassis...center drive shaft is longer.... what else? also will a body form the 1 fit a 2?

Front A-Arms and carriers are different, rear a-arm and carriers are different, the rear outer hinge pin is larger (3.5mm), the front and rear shock towers are different (lighter), there are grease shields on the center cvd's, aluminum parts are anodized black, different rear diff housing, different radio tray (stronger), body has a slightly different design, but will fit on 1.0 version. Steering parts are different. Mainly small updates to fix issues with the first version and to add some better handling and more durability, nothing major.

02.04.2009, 12:42 PM

i just noticed u had the flex chassis on it right? if so why do you have a metal king headz rear brace. i was told that you had to use the plastic ones with that chassis or it would make the chassis not do what it was made to do.

Shark413 · 02.04.2009, 01:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drkros3

i just noticed u had the flex chassis on it right? if so why do you have a metal king headz rear brace. i was told that you had to use the plastic ones with that chassis or it would make the chassis not do what it was made to do.

What your saying makes sense, if they design flex into a chassis why make it stiffer. But the E-conversion changes the dynamics of the chassis slightly because of the rear motor mount that does not exist on the nitro version. I want to try both the metal brace and the plastic one and then decide which suits my driving style. Since there were no changes to the front I am using the stock plastic brace up front.