Yes, they come with straps and several3mm and 4mm countersunk screws to get you going.
Getting a longer battery tray might be a good idea if you plan on using different batteries, or just wan to keep options open. Jst use some dense foam to take up the slack.
Similar to Arct1k, I would the tray using a couple small pieces of servo tape. Then I drill a 3/32" or 5/64" hole through the chassis and tray - basically smaller than the screw I am using so the threads bite. If using 4mm screws, same process applies, just drill ~1/8" holes for the threads instead, and slightly larger 5/32" holes for the screws themselves. Remove the tray and tape, and enlarge the chassis hole to accomodate the 3mm screw, and countersink it. I usually try to use existing holes if possible first, and drill new holes only if I have to.
Thanks Brian,
I guess it’s not as difficult as I thought, but you balance the car first before you mount?
I guess it’s not as difficult as I thought, but you balance the car first before you mount?
I don't worry too much about balancing. Usually, the battery is counter balanced by the servo and motor on the other side. Still might be "off", but not enough for me to notice. Besides, the gyro effect of the tires spinning in the air tends to even out the truck on jumps.