That sticky does have the mods needed for each shaft; quoted from the sticky:
Quote:
I noticed that whenever a pin broke, it was right where the threads meet the shaft, so that must mean that that spot is the most stressed. So, I modified two of the stock pins so they are about 7mm long each and then threaded both screws on each side of the gear hubs so the shaft tips meet inside the shaft. Below is a pic of the modified screw pin:
When cutting the black FOC pins and the original chrome pins (same size, diff color), the black ones seemed to take longer to cut with the dremel, so I think they are harder. This method has an added benefit: Since both sides are now captured, if a pin does break, the broken end won't fall out and mess up the other gears.
.
.
.
Steps for each shaft:
Input (top) shaft: Since 2 modified pins will be used: in the plastic gear hub, enlarge the hole on the other side of the gear hub (opposite the threaded side) using a 7/64" drill bit to allow for the threads of the second pin. Modify two of the stock chrome pins like in the picture above and screw them in. The chrome ones are OK to use here because the pins have less force being exerted on them due to the gearing.
Idler/middle shaft: Basically do the same thing as the previous step, but use two of the black FOC pins instead. The pins here need the extra strength.
Output shaft: Since the output shaft is a softer metal, and has enough diameter, drill out a 2.5mm hole in the output shaft and the gear hub. There is no suitable "standard" size that properly equates to 2.5mm. Then drill a 1/8" (or 3mm) hole in one half of the hub to allow for the larger pin threads.
|
Threaded Mode
