New Turnigy Titanium HV Servos

[simplechamp]

Not me, Feb 20th I got the "Checker Robot" message saying my order was packed and sent to shipping dispatch. I didn't pay for the EMS express this time like I usually do. Hopefully now that the holidays have passed Hong Kong Post won't be so slow on standard shipping. I really want to get the servo to test out, but I won't be able to run my truggy until April/May anyway I guess there's no rush.

[rawfuls]

I doubt you'll get it soon, Chinese New Year is ending tonight, and all the factories and warehouses are opening up again tomorrow morning, so they have tons of orders to fill :O

[BP-Revo]

Originally Posted by _paralyzed_

you run the power wires direct to a battery and only the signal wire to the RX.

It depends, if you have all HV servo's (or, like me, just have 1 servo - the steering servo) you can just run more voltage through your RX.

The Spektrum SR3500 receiver I used in my CRT.5 and Mini E-Revo are rated to 9V while the "Pro SR3001" in my G2R is rated to 9.6V.

The Castle Link allows you to adjust as high as a 9V output, so you could put it right there on the edge.

Personally I'd just stick with a Hitec servo. Cause for the most part if you want to get the full advantage out of those HV servo's, you'll be complicating things by getting separate 3S receiver packs and what not, you'd be better off spending the extra money on the right Hitec servo that outputs almost the same torque on just 6V.

If a receiver is rated to be able to take up to 9.6v, what does tht mean?

[BP-Revo]

Well, typically you have RX power input into the receiver, and then your servos plug into the receiver and the receiver passes power through to the servos and also takes a little bit of power for itself to run.

If you put too much voltage into the receiver you fry it.

If your servo can take 12V but your receiver can take only 6v, you can feed a 6v input to the receiver and a 12V source to the servo directly, hooking up the servo's signal wire to the receiver.

[V0RT3X]

Castle BEC at 7.4V into SR3100(rated at 9V) and a HV servo plugged in. Is this correct? (and eliminating the wire at the ESC)

Here's the manufacturer page:
http://www.mks-servo.com.tw/goods.php?goods_id=HV%20767

http://www.mks-servo.com.tw/goods.ph...s_id=HV%20787P

Would it matter if my ESC has its Current Limiter set on No Limit and I power it thru my RX which is rated to take max 9.6v?

No one has gotten this yet?

[simplechamp]

I just got mine today. Seems very solid. The main body of the servo and the top case (part with the mounting ears) are both aluminum. The only plastic is the bottom cap.

Will test out later tonight.

[V0RT3X]

It's morning here and still no review.

[simplechamp]

Not much to report about it yet. Quality seems very good. Very powerful servo. It will probably be another week or two before the snow is gone and I can actually get outside for some real testing.

Only other thing is I can't get the alloy servo horn I bought (Dynamite Futaba horn) to fit. All my other plastic Futaba horns and servo savers fit fine, so it could just as well be poor machining on the Dynamite horn, but it does fit fine on an old Futaba servo I tested it on, so not really sure. Turnigy servos are definitely 25-tooth Futaba spline.

[V0RT3X]

Will you run it off 7V?

[simplechamp]

Yep, 7.4V from CC BEC.

how does the speed seem, i just ordered one for my buggy, how does it fit on your mount? the specs say it is 5mm taller from the tabs to the bottom

[simplechamp]

My truggy uses a laydown mount, so it fits fine, not sure how it would fit on a standing orientation servo mount though.

Seems very fast to me, but this is the first "good" servo I've had so I don't have any reference to the high-end Futaba or Hitec servos.

When someone else gets theirs if you use an alloy horn let me know if/how it fits. Still not sure if my Dynamite horn is the problem, or the servo output is a tiny bit larger and can only squeeze into plastic Futaba-spline horns.