Another Big Savage

[Bondonutz]

Ok, seems that these build threads are getting fairly common so I'm gonna try to keep mine fairly short and sweet (like me). I like the rugged good looks of the raw aluminum and black but again seems to be the norm for everyone elses other than subtle differences.

Heres the front assembly, I went with the obvious Fast Lane Machine stout aluminum diff case/bulkhead and filled it with the HPI Bullet Prof Diff and hung RPM arms and HPI goodies on the end. I was going to cut up and make some LST2 axles work because the ends of the axles where the hubs attach are mucho stronger due to design but I figured I'll do that at a later date. Still waiting for the HPI Titanium Turnbuckles for steering.

I bought the Desert Boy 17 Chassis and will more than likely go with it for now. I bought some 3/16" 7075 plate and was cutting my own but found myself fustrated and just bought one instead.
Cutting two layers of the 3/16" with a jig saw is slow going and eating blades, It's taken several hours just to get the chassis outline cut out , I still have to cut the the holes, drill holes and file all the edges real pretty. I figure I'll have another 10-12 hours to go yet. My design is much different and will allow the batterys up front were they need to be. It's also a 20" WB chassis were as the DB17 is 18-1/4". I have several options.

Still haven't decided to either try to mount a Baja 5B roll cage or go with a large scale body ?

I will be powering this build with either a NEU 1527 or a 1521, not sure just yet. Test's will determin which will get used and with what voltage. Will be running maximum voltage of 8s and 10s, The ESC of choice is still up in the air ??

If I over looked something or you have a piece of advice please chime in.
Jeff

[Finnster]

Interesting to see you went w/ the Savage with all the FLM parts and LST shocks after all that in the other thread w/ Linc and the comparisons to the LST. Thought you got talked out of it.

Otherwise I am about as far as you are w/ my reconstruction. I have a 1521 and will use 8-10S whenever CC gets the HV ICE done, and FLM finishes up their 1/5 scale TVPs so I can take a good look at them. Want to have that w. Mike's UCD mount also.

I do like FLM's tiebar for the steering rack. Its worth looking into to complete the look and also gives good performance.

[Bondonutz]

Finn,

Why the Savy;
95% of the parts were sitting on the bench or were in route when that conversation took place. If haveing a 1/5 scale is something I stay with, I'll bust this down to a XL size and I will do a XXXL !

With my 1527, it's 1500kv & w/10s I have to have to have the reduction of the tranny, If I stay with 8s then I can do that and would like to incorperate the UCD mount and Slipperential also.
Curious to see FLM Savy Chassis myself ?

Yup, When I ordered all my FLM parts it(steering rack) was out of stock. I will get one ASAP.

[Jahay]

Wahay looks so shiny, its going to be a nice shelf queen/road car otherwise byebye towers and LST Shocks.

I wish you all the best with the tranny!!! Drive it slowly and it should be fine i guess, also why FLM Bulks? they are the most annoying bulks to deal with as they utilise the old fashioned style of accessing the diff....


Looking forward to seeing your huge motor in there! i too am waiting for the new castle esc... just hope its sooner rather than later!!!

I have never seen anyone use the stock style upper a arms with the RSC conversion... defeats the point doesnt it??? Otherwise all looks like its going to be a nice build.

I just read my post back, and it sounds like im criticising you badly... I dont mean it in that tone, i am just wondering why you decided on your specific items.

[Bondonutz]

LST shocks and FLM towers will be fine

I F-in' know the tranny is the weak point, I need it for gear reduction. Reread the posts ?

Yes, you sound like a DICK. Go troll elsewhere or learn to use some decorum.

[Jahay]

alright alright sorry man....
Yea i know all about your gear reduction situation...

Some advice regarding your Suspension conversion... Me and plenty of others although using loctite to hold the screws in, always managed to work them selves loose... Here is what i did to solve that issue...

[Bondonutz]

I to apologize for calling you names.

Thats a nice idea, the photo speak volumes.

Thanks !

[Finnster]

Are you using a hand saw or a motorized saw like a scroll saw? I thought about making TVPs myself, but figured it would likely go this way and I have so little time for RCs anymore the project would never get done. Ideally I'd like ~20" wb and use a Redcat Rampage body.

I'd like to see how the FLM bulks do. I got a set myself w/ the BP diffs in them. They are not as easy to open as the stockers, but I'm hoping that shouldn't be much of an issue as the diffs should require less maintenance overall. The only real trouble I had with my last set of diffs (Cens in the OEM bulks) were pinion gears breaking, likely due to the large amt of flex in the case and the cast metal used by Cen to make the gears.

Its not like this is a truggy where you will be opening up the diffs often to change and tune the diff fluid.

[Bondonutz]

I'll tell you what, the teeth on the BP gears are beefy ! I have mine shimmed perfectly and like you said zero flex with the FLM bulks. I honestly think they'll be fine for a long while(fat fingers crossed)

I'm useing a electric/corded Jig Saw. I'm cutting both 3/16" plates at the same time so I'm cutting through a LOT of material. I've tried several types of blades and teeth count.
When I've changed blades it's not because the blades were completely worn out they just stopped cutting as well as new blades. The saw I have is a 5-1/2amp model so it's plenty powerful, the 7075 in pretty hard stuff.

I hate the fact that I'm worried and everyone trashes the Flux tranny. I'm trying to keep an open mind that with a well set slipper it might be ok ?

[Jahay]

People dont rate the BP diffs enough... They are some of the chunkiest diffs i have seen. I did manage to rip a tooth of my front pinion and that was because i landed on power and very hard causing a lot of flex in the bulk head. These diffs in the alloy bulks should be as smooth as butter... Fingers crossed for you and me as well when the new IceHV is released.

IMO about the tranny, i know you are hoping the slipper will save your ass... but when i was testing and only on 6s, i worked out my only option was to tighten the slipper all the way down or i cooked the slipper pad within one lipo run.
What i also noticed is that if you are soft on your thottle finger and only fully blast it once moving, the gears lasted a little longer but still wore down. The tranny was never designed for flux power in mind.

What i did notice which was frustrating, that it was the same 2 gears in the tranny that i kept shredding (all the other never required replacing as they sell HD Ones). I asked castle if they would release some HD Gears to replace them and they said no. If there were 2 hardened gears to replace the stock ones, then i think the tranny would be more than fine.

I tried to convince HPI that it was a big problem, but they wouldnt listen to me, and instead offered to send me replacement gears everytime i shredded one after providing a picture. I cant rate HPI europe enough, they have very good customer service....

[Finnster]

IDK, prolly depends on the overall amt of power you try to put thru it and how you drive it. I had my XL running a 1521 on 8S all last year and never had any issues with the tranny. 95% of my probs were diff related.

OTOH, I don't drive too insane-o, and the kv of the motor was only 1050. It was more speed than the savage was all that good at handling anyway. With the 40 series mashers and the 4WS, much more than ~45 the truck handled like a elephant on stilits. The tires ballooned a lot and the rear end would tend pull (and that was before the 4ws mod. Never could get it dialed out, even putting it on a setup board and aligning all the turnbuckles precisely. I am aiming for a big brusing MT rather than a spd demon

[Bondonutz]

I finished assembly of the rear clip this evening and just slapped on the TVP's with a couple screws to get an idea how this thing will sit.




Heres the Fast Lane Machine Tranny/forward chassis that is Savage XL in lenth, the DB 17 is about 2-1/2" longer



Now that I can really take a look at this chassis I am a little dissapointed theres not much that can be done to switch componants around for better balance. BUT, with a couple light weight packs in series the balance shouldn't be to terrible bad ?
I'm making mental notes for when I finish my own chassis, all the things I dont like or wished it had should be incoorperated into it. I need to find something better to cut the Aluminum with tho, the jig saw sucks.

[Finnster]

Is it backwards? Looks like the steering is in the rear.

In order to balance my XL, I had made side mounted batt boxes that were just slightly F biased. With 8-900g of batts, the balance is very near 50/50

[_dV]

Its the right way round. Motor is in the front for the DB chassis and you can see the cutout for it.

That 7075 Al alloy must indeed be hard stuff. Only used 2 blades cutting my build with a jigsaw through 3mm 5083 H321.

Finnster, your comment made me wonder about my build which is XL length. I'd only just got it into a runnable state and hadn't checked the balance point yet.

It's 1/2 cm forward of center and most of the cutouts in the TVPs will be in the rear so it will move a touch more forward. Battery is 5s 5800mAh (727gm).

I reckon bondo's build should have a pretty decent balance as long large packs aren't used. The flightpower pack i use is quite short(145mm) which allows me to keep it forward ..there should be plenty of space in the DB17 to do the same.

[Jahay]

bondo i think you are bring a little worried over the weight distribution un necessarily. Fit it all out and then see what you need to do.
Having the motor so far up front and having the extra length of teh chassis really does keep the weight quite well distributed even with my 6s 6500mah lipos in the back!!!
With the right sized wheels air control is great too for jumps... I love that flm forward tvp set..

I know what you mean about there not being much room to play with moving stuff around, but there is plenty of beef on the tvps to cut your own holes.