My e-revo brushless edition build

Well, I am sure everyone can say at least you an honest man... thanks for the info I am going to get on ordering up some parts now.

couple questions....I am installing lst diffs in my revo....I know the lst diffs have a different gear ratio than the traxxas diffs but are there different gear ratio sets that can go in the lst diffs or are they all the same regardless of what the diff came out of? I ask because the diffs I bought are in a silver case while most I've seen are in a blue case and I remember reading a comment from someone that implied there are different ring/pinion gear sets for the lst diffs.

Also, I have been running a 54/20 gear ratio on my revo with the stock diffs.....will going to a 24 tooth pinion be slower or faster than what I'm used too on it with the lst diffs?

[mistercrash]

There's a difference in ratio from the LST diffs and the Losi muggy diffs. Make sure you have the LST diffs which use a 13 tooth pinion and a 43 tooth ring gear. The Losi muggy has a different tooth count.

With the correct LST diffs and a pinion/spur of 24/54, BrianG's speed calculator evaluates the top speed of your E-Revo at around 45 mph which would be about 1 mph faster then what you are used too.

Originally Posted by mistercrash

There's a difference in ratio from the LST diffs and the Losi muggy diffs. Make sure you have the LST diffs which use a 13 tooth pinion and a 43 tooth ring gear. The Losi muggy has a different tooth count.

With the correct LST diffs and a pinion/spur of 24/54, BrianG's speed calculator evaluates the top speed of your E-Revo at around 45 mph which would be about 1 mph faster then what you are used too.

cool deal, I have the right diffs then

I got the bulks and lst diffs fitted together today and tested the fit of the xxl cvd's and discovered that with my rdracing carriers I will be able to use the stock cups the diffs come with, they fit pretty much perfect with the pivot balls screwed in just past the threads, so it's all coming together with surprisingly few problems.

I ordered the kershaw center dogbones and will have to do what you did to make them fit with the rcmonster cups on the diffs I guess.

So a regular drill bit will put a hole through the revo tranny output shaft? Did you have to do that for both sides?

I'm going to use one of the kershaw cups clamped in my drill press as a guide for the bit so hopefully that will keep it centered on the shaft and help with starting the hole.


thanks for the help!

[Ola]

Originally Posted by candy76man

cool deal, I have the right diffs then

I got the bulks and lst diffs fitted together today and tested the fit of the xxl cvd's and discovered that with my rdracing carriers I will be able to use the stock cups the diffs come with, they fit pretty much perfect with the pivot balls screwed in just past the threads, so it's all coming together with surprisingly few problems.

I ordered the kershaw center dogbones and will have to do what you did to make them fit with the rcmonster cups on the diffs I guess.

So a regular drill bit will put a hole through the revo tranny output shaft? Did you have to do that for both sides?

I'm going to use one of the kershaw cups clamped in my drill press as a guide for the bit so hopefully that will keep it centered on the shaft and help with starting the hole.


thanks for the help!

I didnt drill any holes in my shaft`s to fit the kershaw`s.. I just moved the tranny 1-2mm backwards.. 3 minutes with the dremel fixed that :)
The rear center axle actually was a bit short, not too short, but short enough to move the tranny 1-2mm.. Now both sits perfect, deep into the cups.

Well, I got the kershaw axles today and got those installed so at this point I basicly just have to put the truck back together and I should be good to go

The longer rear dogbone fit fine but I did have to drill a new pin hole on the front tranny output and cut off about a 1/4 inch of it but thats all it took...I now have about 1/4 inch of play on front and rear dogbones which I think is enough to prevent any binding when the chassis flex's...besides most of the flexing it does actually opens up the gap rather than closing it so it should be fine.

I put a few o rings under the ends of the dogbones on each side to keep them centered and prevent them from sliding back and forth all the time....Any reason that may not be a good idea? They can still move back and forth, just not without a little pressure.

Is it normal for these lst diffs to be a little notchy when new? (I mean the ring and pinion, not the diff itself) One is fairly smooth but the other is pretty notchy, I assume they will wear in and I don't see any way to adjust the mesh aside from the one shim on each one and thats already on the side that opens up the mesh slightly.


heres a pic of where I'm at

Originally Posted by Ola

I didnt drill any holes in my shaft`s to fit the kershaw`s.. I just moved the tranny 1-2mm backwards.. 3 minutes with the dremel fixed that :)
The rear center axle actually was a bit short, not too short, but short enough to move the tranny 1-2mm.. Now both sits perfect, deep into the cups.

Thats odd, Mine was too tight in front for that to work and the rear one would have been to tight if I moved the tranny rearward any. I did notice that the front dogbone ball had been ground down flat after the black finish was applied so I guess kershaw thought they are just a little too long too.