Slash 4x4 Buggy 1717 6s

[Dr_T]

That's stupid they made you pay for their internal transportation. Could be a sign the TP EU and TP US distributors are not related as directly to the factory as name would suggest? Bruno put me into contact with the factory and at the moment things seem like they will turn out well with my warranty thing *knock on wood until everything's final*.

Hope the motor is good now and Godzilla Slash will finally be operational again, and stay that way. You can't go much faster though, or it'll be too hard for me to keep up :). You gonna run 8mm pinions or turn down shaft?

[Lizard]

Yeah, I guess TPPower Europe is more a distributor than really part of TPPower.

Bruno told you the motor came like that from the factory?

Not sure on the shaft yet, I'm not very keen on hours of grinding. With the 32t 8mm bore Kershaw pinion I have I can get no-load speeds from 185kph to 207kph, I hope the 185kph gearing is going to be okay for running through a whole pack then I don't need to grind it down.

[Dr_T]

Yeah 185kph gearing sounds good, same as you ran before, no? Would be good if you can avoid the extra work and risk.

Yeah, at first I was sceptical too, but Bruno was right and TP (factory) took full responsibility for the state of my rotor, apologized and is handling it now, very satisfactory so far, but I'll share final conclusion when I actually have the stuff in my hands again :).

[Lizard]

They really sent out such a motor? WTF. I mean, a worker having a bad day, okay, can happen. But this looks more like they re-used some old stuff and didn't do it right or in a hurry. Or while riding a rollercoaster or something, judging from the grinding work they did there.

Before I had 30/36 = 183.6kph, now I'm going to run 32/38 = 185.6 kph, close enough :) But I don't really like the heavy Kershaw pinion.

[Dr_T]

Lol, yeah, seems like it was done blind-folded... Looking at the mods done to the shaft, I think it might have been a rotor from the old 92mm length can 5660s, adjusted to fit the new 80mm cans; maybe it was a quick-and-dirty test sample that got mixed up with actual production stuff,... or maybe I'm just a bit naive thinking that :).

I'm very curious though on the retaining compound they normally use between rotor and shaft. In my bad rotor it looked like it was just some glue... I got the loctite 648 you suggested, seems exactly the right stuff for that purpose, but I'll probably only use that if my new rotor would detach again.

[ruudxd]

That shipping sounds stupid to me indeed, they need to send it back, that is their problem.
If I buy something from a Hobbyshop here in Holland and it is bad, and needs to get back to Horizon and Maybe to Horizon USA, I would not have to pay that..
But maybe I look at it from the wrong side.

I hope your motor works, don't you have a local maching shop, or a hobbyshop/tech lab where they can turn the shaft down?
Or would that void the warranty?
Here in The Netherlands, we have some shops with a lot of tools which you can use for little cost, of let someone do it for you.

@ DrT : Maybe the guy in the factory had a fun last night and drunk a little to much ;)

[Lizard]

Dr. T: Maybe it's the same glue that they use for the stator and endbell in the videos? Doesn't seem to be right glue for that kind of application I guess? Maybe that is the reason my rotor got lose also? Who knows...

ruudxd:
We have machine shops here also but I think they usually only do business customers, not sure. I have a drill press and a dremel so I can do it myself if I have to.

[Dr_T]

I'm thinking of copying what you did here to make a relatively cheap 4Ah 8S pack from 2 Turnigy HD 4S packs, but not sure how comfortable I am soldering on Lipos; any advice on how not to create a disaster? :)

I saw they come with 10AWG wires, so you put the 8AWGs on yourself too, right?

[Lizard]

hmm. Good question, I don't remember changing the wires. But if you say they come with 10AWG I must've changed them obviously :)

Regarding the soldering. Was done with a cheap 60W conrad Iron, I think a 100w one would've been better. In the middle where I joined the cells, there is a piece of copper under the solder blob.

Regarding safety: I put several layers of tape everywhere and bent up those paper insulation thingies so I couldn't short something accidently. Also the lipos were discharged and I did it right next to the open balcony door, just in case :)

[Arct1k]

Make it easier - use the existing wires and just cut them very short.

[Dr_T]

Originally Posted by Lizard

hmm. Good question, I don't remember changing the wires. But if you say they come with 10AWG I must've changed them obviously :)

Regarding the soldering. Was done with a cheap 60W conrad Iron, I think a 100w one would've been better. In the middle where I joined the cells, there is a piece of copper under the solder blob.

Regarding safety: I put several layers of tape everywhere and bent up those paper insulation thingies so I couldn't short something accidently. Also the lipos were discharged and I did it right next to the open balcony door, just in case :)

Thanks! So you added a piece of copper there? I don't have a balcony, but I guess I can throw them out of the window :D.

Originally Posted by Arct1k

Make it easier - use the existing wires and just cut them very short.

Yeah, you're right, might not make so much difference in Resistance anyway, thing is... I've been telling everyone that 10AWG is for babies :).

[Lizard]

Hmm, just had a look at the 8s pack, it says "Turnigy 10AWG" on the wires, seems they just look thicker in the picture somehow.

[Dr_T]

Those packs clearly are for babies :).

[Lizard]

Hehe, yeah, my soldering iron just wasn't manly enough for 8 AWG :)

[ruudxd]

Baby's can be nice, somethimes? ;)