twin force center diff.

[jimbob]

ya im sure you could find some that would fit easily..
looks like they are mod1

i get what your saying now.. is hard to think about the sprocket without the parts in front of you :P
might have to order some parts

[jollyjumper]

yeah, all 1/8th nitro stuff is module 1.

[jimbob]

well i will try and come up with a design and see what you think

might have to order the diff first unless anyone knows any mesurements

[jollyjumper]

HB/kyosho diff is 25mm inbetween the bearings, bearings are 16*8*5mm.
cup is 31mm diameter and spur is 2mm bigger then the tooth count.
that should do.:003:

[jimbob]

ok cheers :027:

so if you would need to mounts with holes for the bearing to sit inbetween
should be too hard i guess..

plate would need drilling as well, keeping stock postion? so dogbones are right length
and wouldn't running the chain as well gear it down more with a centre diff?
as in should it be fine with just the centre diff :026:

[jollyjumper]

i personally bough truggy diff 'cause i tough i would go direct drive at first.
but i didnt like how the diff would stick out below the chassis.
so that why i want the chain drivin' diff.
same ground clearence as stock.
and even with the 4.3/1 diffs and the tranny its gonna be geared right for my motor's.
(19t 540's).
so if you want to do direct drive you should use truggy diff as otherwise it will run too fast imo.:mad:1
with 4.3 diff and 46/13 you are at 15.21/1 total wich is nice with 5.75~6.125 tires.
otherwise you are geared around 11/1~12/1 total, makes the truck really fast at the ideal rpm. 35000rpm or so.

[jimbob]

i reckon you could make it fit :018: i will measure up and see
its not gunna be easy but two minds are better then one

[jollyjumper]

take a peak at my drawings i posted earlier. give you an idea how i would of done it. dafni said it looked ok, so its a start.
it would even have a skid plate and an esc mount.

[jimbob]

ya they look good... i will start out with some drawings on paper, i hate using CAD :032:

[jimbob]

ok two bits more info before i decide on my design

how far infront of the bearings do the drice cups sit...
how long is the total diff?

my plan to to actually mount the centre diff on top of the plate?
just an idea, im thinking may work :018:

[jollyjumper]

kyosho total lenght: 64mm
hotbodies total lenght: 66.5mm
kyosho outdrive cup:13.5mm
hotbodies outdrive cup: 15mm

[jimbob]

cheers
what do you think about mounting it on top? it depends how high you run your TF i guess...

i will be going for the hotbodes as i know where i can get them :eek:
i shall get measuring then.. hopefully all it will require is abit of cutting to the chassis plate and a mounting plate for the diff

[jimbob]

this mount would use stock holes and make the diff sit on top of the chassis using the stock motor mount cut in half ?? (should be strong enough hopefully)





left is the front mount
right is the back mount

with this design all you need is some 5mm metal or plastic and a drill press
cut one section 26mm by 45mm and the other 26mm by 26mm

then drill the 16mm hole for bearing in correct position
im currently going to get some plastic of some kinda and try and make it to see how well it will work...
it does move the drive cup positions so im hoping the dogbones can still be used :018:

[jollyjumper]

i dont understand good, you want to move the diff on top of the tranny plate?:002:

[jimbob]

yes :026:

well this will require the suspension to be set low... but this is the design i have current come up with...
either this or a new motor mount will also be required as this was the only was i could see to make the 50t sput and 14/15/16t pinion meet