Losi 2.0 Conversion

Shark, did you re-tap for 4mm? How did that go being unable to take the front part off?

[Shark413]

Originally Posted by Electric Dave

Shark, did you re-tap for 4mm? How did that go being unable to take the front part off?

Dave, first I DO NOT RECOMMEND THAT ANYONE RETAPS THEIR MOTORS. The risk to damaging the motor/coils is very high (there is only a few mm of clearence from the endbell to the coils). And that's why I didn't mention in my post. It is much safer to send it to Neu and have them re-tap or exchange for a m4 can. But that being said I just could not sleep seeing that huge motor held on by two tiny m3 screws, I had several motors loosen up (slip) a few times and I think it could be related to the m3 screws that stretch or the small heads dig into the mount causing the looseness. For the m4 screws I used a mill to drill the holes, with the mill you can set it to only travel a specfic amount, so I measured the depth of the holes and ensured I was well short of the coils. You have to take the motor apart so you can clean out the metal chips. I used a special tap (blind hole) that allows you to tap in a very shallow hole, normal taps have a starter point and they need to be feed deeper into the hole, which could hit the coils. When cleaning out the can I was careful not to blow out the bearing grease/oil, nothing kills a bearing faster than lack of lube.

The losi plastic spur failed on the first night of running for me. I think the kyosho ones are much better quality havent had a problem with one of those ever.

[Shark413]

Some updates:



Added a fan guard.


Added Integy front/rear carriers. Yeah I know some people say there junk, but I also have the new KingHeadz carriers on my truggy so we will see how the Integy stuff compares. Both front and rear carriers feature the larger 16x8mm outer bearing.

[Shark413]

Got the buggy out this weekend and gave it a good workout. Ambient temps were higher (mid 80's) but the new motor ran much cooler, it was fast and controllable on 4s. Max motor temp after 10 mins was 122 degrees.

[Shark413]

Update:

I recieved my Traxxas ESC mount and added it to the Losi. Some people use the existing holes in the Losi battery tray, but when you do that the ESC sticks out too far and hits the body. Any blows to the body would be transmitted directly to the ESC which could cause a malfunction. So I mounted the ESC more inboard and turned 90 degrees. In this configuration the body cleared with no problem.

[Shark413]

Update:

I was cleaning/checking the buggy out when I noticed the shrink wrap on my motor wires looked strange. I took a closer look and the middle wires shrink wrap had split and was bascially falling off. It does not appear to have shorted because there were no burn marks on the endbell cover or wires and the buggy ran fine this weekend. I took off the rear endbell cover, added two layers of new shrink wrap and bolted the endbell back on. There is still a little gap between the wires and the holes in the endbell that can cause friction wear on the wires so I filled the gaps with hotglue. The hotglue also provides a better dust seal.

[nitrostarter]

Sure looks good! I'm tempted to try the Tekin system as well.

[stum]

i've been racing weekly a medusa v2 60mm 2000kv for nearly a year and only had to replace the bearings in my tekno 8ight-e. Wicked awesome motor and a very nimble weight to boot. MMM v3 for the esc.... save the money iMO, those castle 2200's are 140ish, these medusa's are only 110 and w/ a mmm they are both deadly and rock solid.

[sabongi]

Any updates on the tekin motor?

[Shark413]

Hi, regarding the Tekin motor. I am running them in my buggy and truggy. The buggy separated a magnet on the first pack, Tekin customer support got me a replacement within the week and it has about 6 packs thru it with no issues. The truggy motor has been going strong since day one (about 12 packs). Both motors perform well, are very strong, and temps are good. The 3mm/4mm mounting holes are a great feature (I use the Losi mount with 4mm screws). I have been running them with a MMM ESC and this combo works fine.


Separated magnet


New replacement rotor

[Shark413]

Update:

It was really hot out here in Socal at the end of June, but the track is going to be closed for a few weeks so I wanted to get one last weekend of practice to stress test the Tekin motor (and new rotor). It may not get as hot as some places but the the air temp was 106 degrees and the track surface was 135 degrees, so this was a good test on how the battery, ESC and motor would handle the heat. I put three 4s Neuenergy packs thru, I dropped down a tooth on the pinion because of the heat (47/14T). Max temps on the motor were in the low 180's and the Battery hit 110. Performance was great the weather was not.

[Shark413]

Been a while so I thought I would pass on some updated info. Still super hot at the local track recently, air temps 106+ and ground temps 140 degrees. So I got some extended run time in during the day to see how the electronics would hold up. The Tekin T8 and MMM motors held up great and temps were decent (never got hotter than 175 degrees). My MMM ESC handled the heat fine, but I did have a problem with the fan, it was working intermittently. I always check to see if it is working when I first turn on the ESC and the fan was not moving. I removed the fan and tested it and it was indeed dead. I have several MMM ESC's and this is about the 3rd fan failure. It is a pain to remove the ESC, take the case apart and remove the fan, so I decided to make it a little easier. I don't recommend you do this because it could void your warranty, but I bascially attached the fan to the outside of the case and ran the wires directly to my rx so the fan was on all the time. This setup allows quick replacement of a broken fan, you can tell right away if the fan is dead and it runs all the time, which keeps the ESC cooler. Just drilled two holes and used two 3mm screws to hold the fan down.

[SpEEdyBL]

I just decided to remove the fan from my MMM completely. All the jumps on the tracks that I run on cause the blades to break off and get caught, causing the fan to stall, which is the worst as it is draining current and not cooling the esc. Now that I run the tekin T8 1900 motor on the MMM, the fan rarely turns on anyway, at least with 4s. But I have found that 4s is all you need for this motor most tracks as you can easily gear to 40+ mph and still have cool temps. I've tried 16/46 in my 8ight on a large out door track and the highest motor temps i have seen in 80 degree heat was in the 130s. Actually the only time I've gotten this motor up to 140 was when I was running that gearing with 5s in front of my house for a full run, which was pretty sick. I would easily get my CC2650 up to 165 geared for the same speed.

[ptt81]

Shark...got a question for you, is there a reason you choose the Losi conversion kit over the Tekno? Im going to convert mine when my new kit gets here but i can't decide between the two and I don't know which one is better in term of durability, it seems to me I get more space on the tekno and better motor mount and overall better CG since they have moved the stuff a bit up front. But i can't use plastic spur.