introducing new 1/8 120a car esc

[florianz]

in any shop at least in Germany or in Europe, selling stuff of Graupner or Jamara; dunno which one is shipping overseas. I'll have a look.

I am thinking about adding two 1000uf power caps, by soldering them with a thin wire on the plus and minus directly at the esc.

My question to the expert is: where the actual caps are soldered at, there are also little thingens between plus and minus of the cap. looks like a little resistor.


would it be dangerous to add some more caps w/out such resistors, just w. a wire to plus/minus (I must put the cap somewhere else)?

when I had the plane esc in use, I added a punch of caps, and it worked beautifully.

thanks
florian

[lutach]

I know the company that makes them and I asked them to make one with dual powerboards, but that was the last I've heard of them. They have a 90A 6S and a 35A 6S ESC with switching BEC.

Here is a picture of the 90A next to that 120A unit:

[florianz]

hey lutach,

somehow I am not surprised that you aleady know that esc... you're the pope of bl-ESC's! I am curious who the manufacturer is... do you have experience with those esc?

what do you think, adding two 1000uf low esr caps would be ok? I just don't trust those three 330uf caps. a guy here in germany just smoked his new esc, in his truggy on 6s and a medusa 3680... I want to avoid that w. some extra caps. I am running it on 5s in a loxi xcelorin 1700kv.

thanks for a hint,
florian

[lutach]

Originally Posted by florianz

hey lutach,

somehow I am not surprised that you aleady know that esc... you're the pope of bl-ESC's! I am curious who the manufacturer is... do you have experience with those esc?

what do you think, adding two 1000uf low esr caps would be ok? I just don't trust those three 330uf caps. a guy here in germany just smoked his new esc, in his truggy on 6s and a medusa 3680... I want to avoid that w. some extra caps. I am running it on 5s in a loxi xcelorin 1700kv.

thanks for a hint,
florian

I contacted them also to see if they could make a higher voltage model for me, but no word yet from them. The manufacturer is in Taiwan and not China. I don't have any experiance with them, but they seem like a solid design. One member here was testing the 90A 3S esc, but I haven't asked him any more info. I told the manufacturer that a capacitor bank would be nicer as the ones on the ESC could break off due to high impact. I've seen small capacitors do ok, but I like higher and more capacitors just to be safe incase one fails. If the warranty is good for them, try it out. That will be the only real way to find out if it'll work out good.

[florianz]

Originally Posted by lutach

I've seen small capacitors do ok, but I like higher and more capacitors just to be safe incase one fails. If the warranty is good for them, try it out. That will be the only real way to find out if it'll work out good.

I don't want to void the warranty, but I'll do it in a way that I can reverse it w/out a problem.

my plane esc's were very smooth and never exceeded 35 degrees c.,w some extra caps (at least doubled the capacity of uf).

for boat esc you can get massive cap banks, eg. by etti or yge. when its good for boats, it should be good for cars, too. especially, as we have higher peaks, and more partial load, different to boats. they have higher permanent amps. but not such high peaks, especially when breaking.

florian

[lutach]

Originally Posted by florianz

I don't want to void the warranty, but I'll do it in a way that I can reverse it w/out a problem.

my plane esc's were very smooth and never exceeded 35 degrees c.,w some extra caps (at least doubled the capacity of uf).

for boat esc you can get massive cap banks, eg. by etti or yge. when its good for boats, it should be good for cars, too. especially, as we have higher peaks, and more partial load, different to boats. they have higher permanent amps. but not such high peaks, especially when breaking.

florian

I like big capacitor banks. Most that have used them do report a cooler running ESC.

[MetalMan]

Originally Posted by lutach

I know the company that makes them and I asked them to make one with dual powerboards, but that was the last I've heard of them. They have a 90A 6S and a 35A 6S ESC with switching BEC.

Here is a picture of the 90A next to that 120A unit:

I've been running that 90A version for about a year now, with great success. Previously it was used with 4s2p A123 and a Great Planes Ammo 36-56-2600 in my Rustler geared 18/46. Now everything is the same, except 4s 3700mah 20C Lipo.

The ESC's software hasn't impressed me too much. But then again I have NO CLUE how to program it since it was given to me to test.

[lutach]

Originally Posted by MetalMan

I've been running that 90A version for about a year now, with great success. Previously it was used with 4s2p A123 and a Great Planes Ammo 36-56-2600 in my Rustler geared 18/46. Now everything is the same, except 4s 3700mah 20C Lipo.

The ESC's software hasn't impressed me too much. But then again I have NO CLUE how to program it since it was given to me to test.

I knew you were going to come in here . I would like to kow if you have a 4 pole motor to test it out with?

[jsr]

Originally Posted by florianz

My question to the expert is: where the actual caps are soldered at, there are also little thingens between plus and minus of the cap. looks like a little resistor.

If you're referring to the brown/orange colored chip that we see a portion of in your picture with a glob of solder on it's end terminal, that's a ceramic capacitor.

One word of advice on adding caps that are off-board, use as thick wire as you can. The purpose of the caps is to supply energy during those high demand moments (chang in acceleration such as immediate acceleration or immediate decel (i.e. braking)). If you use thin gauge wire, the wire will limit the amount of current the caps can provide and get more resistive.


Lutach -

The 90A version doesn't look like it has caps on it. Are there any?

Also, in your opinion, how do these compare to the Hobbywing ESCs? The HWs seem to use good components (at least for their output FETs) and are soldered pretty well (albeit in a ginormous sized package).

[mikey09120]

if you look at the picture there is an external cpacitor

[lutach]

Originally Posted by jsr

Lutach -

The 90A version doesn't look like it has caps on it. Are there any?

Also, in your opinion, how do these compare to the Hobbywing ESCs? The HWs seem to use good components (at least for their output FETs) and are soldered pretty well (albeit in a ginormous sized package).

I don't know how they compare against each other. Both ESCs are somewhat new and both will see a fair share of failures. Only time will tell how they stack up against each other.

[zeropointbug]

Looks like this ESC was thrown together by a 10 year old. But if it performs and is reliable then if you wanted, you could make a custom case for it if you so desired.

[BrianG]

Originally Posted by zeropointbug

Looks like this ESC was thrown together by a 10 year old. But if it performs and is reliable then if you wanted, you could make a custom case for it if you so desired.

I have to agree. Well, the seperate boards look ok, but what's with the crappy foam spacers? Poor design IMO.

And the metal case does little to help cooling. It's attached to the heatsink, but that is the only contact it makes, and even so, it's too thin to be of much use if mounted on a metal chassis.

The power board looks similar to a HobbyWing, but the brains are certainly different.

[zeropointbug]

LOL, not offense, but the more I look at this thing, the more it makes me laugh. It just looks like the engineers were hired off the street, and given 1 week to design it.

[lutach]

They could've made a bigger version of the 90A to keep the same look going.